Gallery
The track above Goat Creek climbs steeply to the tops above the bushline Travel along the open tops, with Goat Hill visible on the opposite side of the valley Imposing view of Mt Barron during a snack break View of the Otira Valley from the ridge below the summit Final rocky climb towards the summit View from the summit looking past the low peak and along the Otira River Departing the lower peak Rock wren spotted at a distance shortly into our descent. There were two calling to each other with thin whistling calls and lots of bobbing. View towards Arthurs Pass from the ridge Triangular stone implausibly wedged in a ravine Lengthy scree descent below point 1265 Climbing Avalanche Peak The largest uropetala carovei I've seen, resting on the track Snack break at the summit of Avalanche Peak The view towards Arthurs Pass Sidling to the saddle below the peak Heading down the scree to Crow Valley Looking down Crow Valley from the screen slope View over the bushline Looking north towards the rest of the Paparoa track View from Croesus Knob summit looking south along the West Coast Starting the descent Vivid southern rātā in bloom Stunning hillside travel as the bush drops off, with Mt Cook buttercups lining the uphill side of the track Carroll Hut, with Mt Barron rising into cloud opposite Hebe in flower. It seems to be thriving even above the bushline. Dawn view facing Arthurs Pass, with the pass itself covered in low cloud Flies pollinating Mt Cook buttercup View of Mt Alexander from Kellys Hill summit Southern rātā in bloom. We saw an orange-fronted kākāriki nearby. Icy ascent along the ridgeline to the summit View over the Canterbury plains from the summit Gentle descent on the other side of the summit with stunning views inland Preparing for the steep part of the descent Looking out towards the plains from where the summit descent meets the main track at the northern saddle Bush-covered hills as far as the eye can see as the spur rises The remains of the "Old propectors hut" marked on Topo50 Dracophyllum in seed Granity Pass Hut The ravines and rocky faces near the summit Rock bivvy a 10 minute walk above hut. I stopped by for a swim. Hut weka Mining equipment near the stamping battery, not far from the trailhead Bridge over a torrential Architect Creek A swollen side creek rushes to join the Copland River below I relocated this stick insect off the track after nearly trampling it Looking down the Copland Valley from Shiels Creek Mushroom, possibly Armillaria novae-zelandiae Welcome Flat Hut The Welcome Flat hot pools, with views of the imposing Sierra Range Dog-shaped rock in the river Post and crowd at the summit Approach to the summit Dramatic rock and tussock scenery along the tops Looking north from the summit over Lake Wānaka towards Mt Albert and the Makarora River Looking south from the summit. The small forested island is Mou Waho, which I have added to my list of places I want to camp! View over Lake Hāwea on the descent Little Mt Peel summit with shelter just below Approaching the shelter Nearby grass fire which developed (and was extinguished) while we were above the bushline Looking north from the summit Starting the descent, looking southwest Silvery moss and ferns among the beech forest near the bushline Catching a breath on the climb to the summit. Bealey River is visible at the base of the valley. Dramatic vista from the summit. A hiker can be seen admiring the view. Far below, the highway winds up towards Arthur's Pass proper. Curious juvenile kea that got dangerously close to my camera Water break on the cloudy descent. Devils Punchbowl Falls are just visible on the other side of the valley. Butler Range viewed from near the start of the trail. Ice Lake is just on the other side. So close! Predator-proof door on the drawbridge over the Whataroa River near the Perth River Track junction Tackling windfall with a Silky saw We encountered a pair of kea on the high section of track between Scotties Beach and Barrowman Flat Ice Lake shore Ice Lake with Butler Range towering high above Stunning gorge views alongside the track Sunset over the Kaikōura Ranges Looking down towards Kōwhai River Complex cloud patterns illuminated by sunset Glorious sunrise over Kaikōura Peninsula, viewed from near the hut Sunrise on the range to the northwest, looking towards Mt Saunders Buckland Peaks Hut as viewed from the saddle. The mouth of the Buller River is in the distance, framed between hills. View of the West Coast from the saddle Preparing soup with a view Stars over Buckland Peaks after dusk Both Magellanic Clouds and a satellite over Paparoa Range Buckland Peaks in the morning. The access ridge is visible on the left. Stewart Island kiwi / tokoeka on the track shortly before the Ruggedy Mountain saddle crossing Friendly and vocal Stewart Island Robin near Freshwater Hut Native orchid Earina autumnalis was often seen growing draped over windfall and rotting trees. It smells strongly like cheap air freshener and we often caught a whiff of it before we saw it. Tiny snail, possibly a carnivorous Powelliphanta variety, on a large orange fungus Three hikers on Mason beach. The prominent rock becomes impassable at high tide; the high tide route does not look fun. This photo was taken about two hours after a 2.7m high tide. Green marram grass is present on the foredunes on the right. Solo hiker crossing Smoky Beach Looking west to East Ruggedy Beach and the Rugged Islands with the Ruggedy Mountains visible in the distance along with approaching rain West Ruggedy Beach with Codfish Island / Whenua Hou visible in the background Sunset from the top of the Hellfire sand dune with Codfish Island / Whenua Hou visible in the background The wasp bait station at point 1515277E 5364463N. Turn right here to look for the track. Taking in the stunning West Coast jungle as we follow a side stream for a bit One of the first Gorge sections, which was easily wadeable. They got worse. A lot worse. Mt Curtis Hut on a claggy morning Sunset over the Paparoa Range Milky Way over Mt Wynn further down the Victoria Range The hut at night with light pollution visible from Westport Paparoa Range after dusk Attractive scrub in the upper Edwards Valley beyond Edwards Hut Rockfall near Taruahuna Pass Looking down Otehake West Branch Valley from Taruahuna Saddle Getting ready to leave Otehake Hut. The hut is fairly standard and only receives a handful of parties each year. The group before us had been there about a month prior. Rock wren at Taruahuna Saddle Approximate summary of the proper Tarn Col routes--including our mistaken route. The upwards route is poled. View (or lack thereof) from Tarn Col The tarn at the top of Tarn Col (is it called "Tarn Col Tarn"? "Col Tarn"?) Avalanche debris snow cover over the stream draining from Tarn Col Tarn Descending the stream gorge from Tarn Col, with Pt 1742 looming large in the dramatic cloud Tarn near Walker Pass with Blackball Ridge visible in the skyline Rafting across Lake Wānaka on a bluebird Saturday One of the Gorge sections of the Albert Burn Stunning riverbed travel up the Albert Burn beyond the Gorge Albert Burn Hut on the hillside Beautiful 146m waterfall cascading down the cliffs opposite the hut. The basin at the base forms a delightful swimming hole. One of the many steep, rocky waterfalls draining into the Albert Burn Looking up Hope Valley shortly before reaching St Jacob's Hut Top Hope Hut itself The mighty Tevas performed spectacularly for the half hour of river crossings after leaving the hut on our way out Hope Kiwi Lodge with its lovely open surroundings. I went here for my first ever tramp; this is the first time I have revisited a hut! The bridged gorge section of the Hope River was surprisingly pretty Posing for a photo outside Blue River (Blowfly) Hut on an unexpectedly clear evening Proceeding along the tops with clear skies to the left and low cloud to the right Mataketake Hut spotted! Improvising some kindling for the fire by cutting larger pieces. There wasn't much firewood but we somehow got the fire raging. Sunset as viewed from the hut Watching shooting stars in the dying light of dusk Mataketake Hut after sundown Mountains to the east of the range Dawn breaks on ANZAC day, revealing excellent weather for our early departure Looking out from the tops before descending back into the bush Travelling up the stream from Morrisons Footbridge was slippery at times but overall good going The track becomes steeper beyond the saddle, heading up the ridge towards Mt Pfeifer The open tops around Mt Pfeifer, with the summit concealed by cloud Mt Pfeifer Biv at dusk Chief Navigator Will assessing the route down an exposed spine as we descend into thicker scrub Dramatic backdrop to one of the sections of scree. It's not captured well here but the sodden beech forest reflected the clouds, taking on a shimmering silver sheen. Dinner time beside the hot pools Dense beech forest somewhere near Casey Saddle, including this large trunk with something resembling a tumour Beelining across the Poulter River to reach Poulter Hut. The hut becomes visible at quite a distance but I kept GPS handy just in case. Lake Minchin comes into sight. The view unfortunately includes a flock of Canada Geese, a common pest in otherwise pristine areas like this. Reflections in the lake Camp, with Pt. 1546 looming in the distance. Not pictured: the friendly hoard of sandflies following me around. One of the two irritated kea that chased me down the track Poulter Hut catching the morning rays The steep (and leg-breaking) final descent to Andrews Shelter The bridge which emerges from a tunnel Kirwans Hut The clouds part to give a glimpse of Lake Te Anau The clouds part to give a glimpse of Lake Te Anau Speeding down the misty descent towards Iris Burn Hut, our halfway stop Beautiful waterfall near Iris Burn Hut Glimpse of Lake Kaniere from the densely-forested track Mt Brown Hut with Newton Range in the background View towards the coast as the clouds clear for sunset. Kokatahi River is prominent. Distant hillside, likely Sam Knob in in Toaroha Range, viewed from Mt Brown Moon and a planet after dusk. The lingering sunlight illuminates the rain below the distant clouds. Stargazing at night The trail climbs up high above the lake, granting panoramic views across the entire region The party passes over a saddle near Bushline Hut A walker crests the hill near Bushedge Shelter, about to tackle the steep downhill of Pinchgut Track Needle ice was present along much of the track. It's the first time I've experienced it. Meeting the local longfin eels (tuna kuwharuwharu) A night walk didn't reveal any kiwi, but a narrow layer of dense fog settled over the lake making for dramatic sights Nighttime crossing of the river just before Dillons Homestead Hut. Tree outside Dillon Hut Lining up a photo spot beside the river. The azure blue colour of the river was striking. The three-wire bridge can be seen in the distance. Crossing the river at the bridge between Mid Taipo and Julia Huts Stargazing on the balcony at Julia Hut. Grevilles Cone (centre) and Campbell Range (right) can be seen in the background - not to mention the Large Magellanic Cloud. Reading in the dawn light The group ready to depart Julia Hut on a frosty morning Waiting for party members to cross one by one Crossing at Micks Creek The group proceeds down Taipo Valley beyond Mid Taipo Hut Crossing the lengthy three-wire bridge between Mid Taipo and Dillon Huts Some interesting goldmining equipment near Dillons Homestead Hut Setting off along Forest Road. Much of the first day was like this - 12km of travel along 4WD tracks. Take the Kiwiriki Track if you have more daylight hours than us! Great Barrier Forest viewed from Maungapiko summit Huge kauri tree A couple we met at the hut were also walking down to Bush's Beach to get back to their boat anchored in the bay Carefully crossing the river. I got knee-deep to capture the moment. Sunset as viewed from the Mt Heale Hut balcony Dawn view from the hut balcony The first light brushes Mt Heale below us. The town of Claris sits beneath the fog to the left. The upper stream at the Kaitoke hot springs. Our deep pool was the far one. Quite magical! First crossing of Boyle River Second crossing of Boyle River Many friendly Robins were encountered. So too were Pīwakawaka, which followed us along sizeable sections of the trail. Valley views while approaching Boyle Flat Hut. The hut can be seen in the distance on the other side of the river. Looking west from the ridgeline trail. This was my first trip to the region; the scenery reminds me of a warmer, busier Marlborough Sounds. The finish line in town. A great feeling to complete my first trail running event! We went to Stu's Pig Farm on The 309 Road nearby. An interesting place but I wouldn't go back. Driving Creek Railway provided great views and offbeat entertainment Looking up to Mt Sefton. An ominous shelf of ice is present and so too is Sefton Bivouac, merely a few red pixels in this image (click for higher resolution). The view from the end of the track. Aoraki was frustratingly obscured by cloud most of the time we were there; I'm told this is quite typical. The cloud was clearing as we exited along the trail and Aoraki became almost fully visible Sealy Tarns viewed from above, with Hooker Lake in the background The last steep section of the track becomes rocky before rounding the corner Approach to Mueller Hut. One of my tramping companions had brought a longboard up, because why not? Hooker Valley during the descent, with Aoraki taking pride of place at the head of the valley. The Mueller Glacier moraine wall sits in front. We stopped shortly before Aoraki to take some photos across Lake Pukaki. The weather forecast was ominous; sure enough, we arrived at the campsite around 10pm to pouring rain. Mt Sefton viewed from the campsite. This night was clear and windy. The best view we got from the track, out towards Levin. After this point, we rose into the cloud. Waiopehu Hut in the morning Descending down the trail into foggy forest, shortly after the hut Spiderweb alongside the track Marlborough Sounds while flying out of Wellington the evening after the tramp We had an early start from Queenstown as it's almost 4 hours to drive to The Divide The group gets ready to set off from The Divide Lake MacKenzie Livingstone and Earl Mountain Ranges viewed from above Lake MacKenzie. The clouds added much drama to the scenery. Tarns just beyond Harris Saddle Shelter Turqoise waters of Route Burn One of a few kea near Routeburn Shelter Looking back down the track while approaching Cass Saddle Just over Cass Saddle, the beech was covered in this mossy stuff - quite atmospheric in combination with the low cloud The riverside plain in front of Hamilton Hut. The ground is more level close to the hut and made for an excellent spot to throw a frisbee. The night allowed for some good astrophotography before the cloud rolled in. Visible is Hamilton Hut and the bank upon which it sits. Hamilton Hut and its surroundings in the morning I only had my landscape lens with me for this trip but robins are so tame that it served adequately for bird photography. This particular individual was quite fascinated with the toilet marker. We found a comfortable spot for lunch, perched high on a riverbank overlooking a clearing. There was this moss that made for the most pleasant cushion. We watched some others pass us while we ate. Magnificent views from Lagoon Saddle Arriving at the summit of Mt Oxford. The Canterbury Plains are laid out in front of the hill making for an expansive view across to Banks Peninsula and the coast. The best part of the run is the tops travel: it's good trail with panoramic views. The descent becomes steeper after dipping below the bushline. Ryde Falls. The detour doesn't add much distance to the total and it was lovely to cool our feet in the pool at the falls' base. The first clearing during the initial ascent. The entire south face had beautiful views out across the plains. Beautiful rock formations and forest around the west of the mount. I think that's Two Thumb Range visible in the distance. I took a snack break at this bus stop. Alas, no bus arrived. A steady uphill slog after Woolshed Creek Hut takes you to a saddle north of the mountain Another view of the plains before the track dips down below the bushline to reach Pinnacles Hut. There were a bunch of fires in the distance. Packhorse Hut in the low cloud. Good to stop for a snack and to top up the water supplies. Climbing above the cloud to the south of Mt Bradley (Te Ara Pātaka Walkway) Mt Herbert summit. Ethereal views above the cloud all the way to the alps! Desceding back along Kaituna Valley Packhorse Hut Track to the car The group heads up Edwards River One of many perfect swimming spots along the river A curious robin Scenic bend in the river Polar Range at night 20m waterfall viewed from the track Mt Kaukau / Tarikākā summit Makara Peak summit Wrights Hill summit Brooklyn wind turbine Near Hawkins Hill summit Mt Albert summit Mt Victoria summit. I collapsed in this spot and stayed here for a good 15 minutes. The second half of the first day walk looked something like this: thick low cloud and lots of spooky trees. Here I'm hiding in one. The early sunrise was hard to photograph. Here's the view a bit later in the morning. Doing stretches on the balcony. With views like this I could have stretched all day. The double-layer cloud sandwich remained all day, and from the tops we retained a pristine view Subalpine ridge between Mt Holdsworth and Pukeahurangi / Jumbo Descending Raingauge Spur Bed of the Orongorongo River. Use a map when looking for the turnoff up Matthews Stream; I initially overshot it a fair way. The clearing 100m beyond the South Saddle turnoff. The last steep section heads up this spur but there's a fair bit more walking beyond to get to the summit. The last 500-600m of the track is lined with these beautiful, mossy, twisted trees. It's intensely green and my favourite section of the trail. The clearest view is that across Palliser Bay and out to Aorangi Range on the horizon. It's clear that this is the dividing line between Wellington and the Wairarapa! If you get the angles right you can catch a glimpse of Wellington city. I had to zoom way in on my cellphone photo but that's a large portion of the city in frame. Looking along Remutaka Range, with Tararua Range in the distance. I had a strange feeling while looking along the range from this angle - a feeling that I was somehow inside the Wellington skyline. Typically delightful forest up Mt Matthews Mt Matthews as viewed from my balcony. It's part of the Wellington skyline and always has been. Ferocious wind near the lighthouse Wainuiomata River. It was a bit more sheltered as we headed back along the river to the car. The track climbs above Lake Kohangatera Back to the coast, Baring Head is visible in the distance Reeds of Lake Kohangapiripiri Looking down to the main Pencarrow 4WD track. The lower lighthouse is just around that corner, with the upper one visible on the hill. The upper Pencarrow lighthouse While approaching Pencarrow Head, I stopped to watch the A350 land from a distance
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